Sunday, 23 August 2020

Costa Rica, 2010, 9

Aaron Zacharias <pajarohermoso@yahoo.ca>
To:pajarohermoso@yahoo.ca
Mon., Nov. 15, 2010 at 4:20 p.m.
Yesterday I wandered into a part of Santa Elena that I hadn´t seen before.  Except for yours truly and a Gringo couple seated at the one outdoor table of the soda (cafe) where I was sitting with a cold drink and writing in my journal, the place seemed the most authentically Tico part of Monteverde that I have yet seen.  I found it by accident.  There is this very steep road where I stayed at a bed and breakfast during my last stay here that I decided to explore and the road just wound and meandered this way and that till I didn´t have a clue where I was.  But eventually I found my way back to where I am currently staying.  Today I sat in Cafe Argentina which is also a bat museum.  There are guided tours to see live bats of Costa Rica but I probably won´t bother since they are not among my favourite flying things.  The cafe is very elegant and situated on the third floor of the building with a huge covered terrace and a view.  Since I´ve been very good with my money so far I am starting to indulge a bit more.  Later I walked over to Hidden Valley, the reserve where I went last week.  The fellow who works there, it turns out, is a cousin of the family that owns the bed and breakfast where I am staying.  It seems that almost everyone here is somehow related and the family ties and links of kinship are very strong in this society.  He showed me a troup of Capuchin monkeys in the trees next to one of the buildings.  They are very tame and trusting around humans.  They look very, almost disconcertingly, human themselves and they seemed very comfortable with us standing just two or three feet from them.  Suddenly one of them started shrieking like a demon in hell and then we saw that he was looking in the window where he had seen probably for the first time his reflection.  Kind of like us, eh?  The walk was lovely, looked at birds and yet more leaf-cutter ants.  Saw another cow parade on my way back and then a perfect stranger (an ex-patriot New Yorker who has lived here for the past five years) was kind enough to offer me a ride the rest of the way back to my bed and breakfast. 
Yesterday I saw an oriole.  The one featured below may not be the correct species but it´s pretty close to what I saw.  The bird was elusive and hard to see, but this is to be expected.  They like to feel safe and the way some bird-watchers will go to any extreme to look at them borders on being creepy.  It´s not like they´re going to flash their bling to anyone who wants to see them and sing out ¨Look at me!  Look at me!  Aren´t I beautiful!?¨ 
 
 
Altamira Oriole, Male
 
 
Here´s another beauty that I saw today:
 
Carara, Costa Rica - Jun, 2003 © Lou Hegedus 
This a Baird´s Trogon.  It isn´t the greatest photo and even the one I saw today wasn´t in the best light to show the beautiful iridescent green in the dark plumage.
And now here´s the deal.  This is for anyone on my mailing list who lives in the Greater Vancouver area and has never been given a painting by me (though you might have bought one.)  If either of the bird images you have just seen, or any other colourful (and yes it has to be colourful or I´m not likely to paint it) bird of Costa Rica is something you´d like to see represented in one of my paintings I would be glad to do one for you, small, say, no bigger than 11¨x 14¨.  Or check my website, http://thesearepaintings.googlepages.com and see if there´s something already there that you like.  The cost?  Almost free.  You get to take me out for dinner (not McDonald´s, please, I will choose the place and I promise it won´t be too upscale).  I will even pay the tip.  Yes, this is a serious offer!


Thu., Nov. 18, 2010 at 2:53 p.m.
This morning I eavesdropped over breakfast on a conversation between two couples who are staying here.  By the way I finally met another lone traveller at the bed and breakfast.  He´s an older fellow from the Canary Islands, named Angel  We had a couple of nice chats but I think he´s gone now.  No one, it seems, wants to stay here longer than three or four days, max.  So one of these two couples was  young newlyweds, likely American, the othe an older, late fifties I would imagine, couple, a British man married to an American or Canadian woman.  I was invisible, as I speak only Spanish here at the bed and breakfast, unless I meet English-speaking people that I really like, so I imagine they assumed that I don´t speak English so weren´t going to waste any time on me (I know, I don´t look Latino, but I could pass for Argentinian or perhaps even Spanish, since not every Spaniard has dark hair and brown eyes.)  Anyway, the English chap was complaining loudly and vocally about being stopped and fined for speeding by Costa Rican police, protesting loudly, indignantly, and one might say, embarrassingly, his innocence.  After this he got on his cell phone and in a loud voice complained to the car rental company about the cell phone they had leased him getting stolen.  Remember, it is assumed that I don´t speak English, and therefore I am invisible.  Afterward he complained about this equally stridently to Esteban.  After they left I asked Esteban for his opinion, and he didn´t seem sure what to believe and we both agreed that since we don´t know the police´s side of the story, maybe we should decide that the jury´s out.  By the way, before I even heard this guy open  his mouth I could have sworn that I was getting really bad energy from him, but that might be simply because his holiday was ruined and he was just upset, so who knows.  Just the same, I warned Esteban that by this guy´s accent I could tell this man is English and that the English for the most part are notorious liars.  And when they are outraged about something they lie even more.  Believe me I know this from lots of experience with the British.  Who knows, maybe this guy just got careless and lost his phone, but is already convinced that Costa Ricans are swindlers and thieves out to fleece him of his precious dollars and pounds sterling?  And this is the kind of attitude some people seem to bring with them here and to other countries.  But I will also give him the benefit of the doubt.  Perhaps he was swindled by the police, and maybe someone did steal his cellphone.  And maybe he already has rather a sour and bitter attitude, which we all know, can make one all the more vulnerable having to misfortunes with others.
Anyway, this leads me to expound here about 
 
AARON´S BASIC RULES OF TRAVEL:
 
1. Leave your ego at home.  If you travel with an attitude of humility you are going to learn more, appreciate more, enjoy more, meet some awesome people, and perhaps even make a few new friends.   If you don´t have humility, then you are likely going to learn it on your trip!
 
2. Prepare well.  Give yourself at least six months in advance to make up your mind and do extensive research on the places you want to visit.  Create a realistic budget.  Try to get flight and hotel reservations done at least three months in advance.  Search the Internet both for traveller reviews and to learn as much as you can about the culture, the political social and economic situation, and the risks of where you want to go.
 
3. Try to learn at least a bit of the language.  The longer your stay, the more you are going to need this skill.  People will respond better to you and will respect you more if you try to meet them on their ground.
 
4. Think of yourself as a guest in someone else´s home.  Wipe your feet before you come in.  Treat every person who lives here as if they were your host.  If your expectations aren´t met, have the dignity to not whine about it.  If you are a male, treat women and children with respectful distance.
 
5. Don´t flash your bling.  Dress modestly, leave expensive jewelry, watches and clothes at home or at least in your suitcase.  When eating out or taking a cab tip generously but not excessively.  I think fifteen per cent is adequate.  That´s what I try to tip when I´m in Costa Rica or Mexico City and no one has batted an eye so far.
 
6. Leave your wallet, credit and debit cards, travel documents, and all but the cash you need for the day, in the hotel safe.
 
7. Behave yourself.  If you drink alcohol do it in moderation and if you like to go out in the evenings try to be back in your hotel before midnight.  Limit your intake, to no more than three beers, or, two glasses of wine, or one highball.  And whatever you do don´t use illegal drugs and stay away from other travellers and locals who do use them or sell them.  And absolutely do not try to sex up the locals.  Not only is it tacky and ungracious but it can carry all sorts of other risks that I´m sure I don´t need to elaborate on here. If you want to get laid, then travel with a significant other, or with a bff (best friend with benefits).  Or hit on other tourists (just make sure that they´re already single and interested.)
 
8.  Don´t travel in a pack.  The place where I stayed in San Jose two years ago was overrun by a locust horde of young backpackers from Austria.  There must have been seven or eight of them.  They took over the place, were loud, obnoxious, and everyone smiled when they were finally gone. Try to travel in no more than a group of three, unless you are going as a family.
 
9.  Remember, that people live where you are.  They´re all going about their lives, their work, their families and their education the best way they can.  Be aware of them and cut them lots of slack.
 
10.  If you want a really authentic travel experience, then stay away from chain hotels, all-inclusives and cruises.  Try to stay in bed and breakfasts or private homes if you can.  You will meet more local people and if you can leave your consumerism at home you will likely have a very rich experience here.  Try to avoid tour groups if you are able and walk as much as possible or use local transit. 

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