Wednesday 18 March 2015

Bogota Journal: Is There Such A Thing As A Typical Colombian?

I dunno.  Is there such a thing as a typical Canadian?  Probably.  We all like to pride ourselves for being individuals but we are also very much products of our environment.  Here are some things that I have heard about Colombians since arriving here:

1. They are very class conscious.  From my limited observation I would say this is true.  It is the unfortunate legacy of Mama España or Mother Spain.  It is so deepy ingrained in Colombians and I think generally in Latin Americans that it is like an incurable illness. Yesterday a friend and I had coffee in a very prestigious neighbourhood of Bogota, though to me it would have just been like an ordinary Vancouver area. While I was waiting for him in said cafe a girl of about twelve came in and placed a candy bar on each occupied table.  I and a couple of other patrons bought from her the candy bars.  The manager was wroth and tried to kick her out. nce my friend did arrive we went abut fifteen minutes before he was served, and only after I asked the manager to please get him something.  We both think this might have been her way of getting back at me for undermining her authority and being kind to the poor child selling the candy bars.

 If you belong to the social elite here you do not mix with your social inferiors.  They might work for you as staff or servants cleaning your toilet or mowing your lawn but you would never expect to be on terms that were anything but professional.  That's the generalization.  However when I'm out and about with a certain Bogotano friend who leads a secure middle class lifestyle he will talk to and fraternize with anyone.  He's a super frinedly guy. I am not saying that he doesn't make assumptions about social status but he tends to treat everyone alike.  I have also noticed in the English conversation club a fair diversity of people though this could be assumption on my part.  What I mean to say here is that observation and generalization don't always square with each other.

2. They tend to be insecure.  They need to be recognized and acknowledged and treated with respect or you are likely to lose them.  But isn't this true for everybody?  And who isn't at least a little bit insecure?  I know that if I walk into a social situation and someone actually stops to introduce me and help me feel comfortable then I am way more likely to stick around.

3. They are highly competive.  This does square with my observations.  Colombia has a highly competive capitalist economy and a weak social infrastructure.  It's eat or be eaten.  This likely shows in a lot of other areas: the way they drive for instance.  Also the way they behave in public.  Do not expect considerate treatment from strangers, at least while you are in Bogota, whether you are driving in traffic, walking on the sidewalk or, as I am trying to do right now, write something coherent in a noisy internet cafe where no one seems to be aware or even care that the person next to them might appreciate a little bit of quiet or space. (I never go out without my earplugs) It's like this everywhere.  The other day, in this same internet cafe an older woman next to me was getting help from the staff person on her computer.  So the old dear stood by the computer, meanwhile her butt pressing against my elbow.  Three times I asked her in polite Spanish for a little elbow room.  She pretended to not hear me and she wasn't deaf, by the way.  So I very lightly jabbed her with my crowded elbow and she did finally give me some room.  Not a word of apology or acknowledgement by the way.

On the other hand, when I tripped yesterday on some broken pavement a middle aged Bogotano very kindly asked if I was okay.

4. Colombians are passive agressive and do not like confrontation.  I'd say yes and no to this one.  In social situations they can be infuriatingly nice and agreeable without delivering but this so far has not been my experience but I've only been here for two weeks.

That said, I still prefer to shelve the stereotypes and take people as I find them.  Perhaps it's a bit easier for me because I'm a foreinger.  I still aver that despite some of the daily frustrations these are great people.  But aren't people great everywhere?  Maybe sometimes?  Okay now and then?  If you offer them money?

Friendship for sale!

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