Thursday 2 September 2021

Latin America Again 5

 Rather an inauspicious kind of day.  This morning Alonso gave me a lift on his way to pick up his first client as far as the local library.  It wasn't open, so I went for a long walk on carrera 76 or Seventy-Sixth Avenue, which is kind of a mixed income and class kind of neighbourhood with tonnes of shops, restaurants, bakeries, and the usual fair of a colombian commercial district.  Unlike in Canada, the Mom and pop shop still seem to be thriving in this country, and it is gratifying to see that people in  the community can continue to operate their small businesses.  One really gets a sense of neighbourhood and neighbourliness here in Medellín.

The traffic is as horrible as ever.  you know, even the loveliest, kindest and gentlest Colombian, once they get behind a steering wheel, suddenly morphs into an ugly raging monster (sorry, Alonso!)  Drivers almost never respect crosswalks or pedestrians and simply getting across the street alive can be a blood sport.   Among the worst are the motorcyclists.

  I have already encountered some, off their bikes, friendly kind and quite pleasant, then as soon as they mount their hog, all pretence of civility and niceness vanishes like a morning summer mist.  

I stopped in a park where the only available space with shade was a bench already occupied but it seemed like there would be enough room for two so I politely asked in Spanish if the gentleman would mind sharing. He was very accommodating, and friendly.  It turns out that he is an American from California who lives part time in Medellín and his Spanish is very good, but he wanted to talk more in English so he told me a lot of the story of his life.  Near my age, retired or semi retired teacher, very warm and friendly, and knows and respects Canadians.  It also turns out that he as well as me uses getting lost in a foreign city as a pretext for meeting the locals.  Who would have guessed?

I stopped in a shaded café for a cold drink.  My favourite in Latin America, Batido de Mora con Leche, or a blackberry milkshake.  Very refreshing and the fellow working there, owner I presumed, seemed rather friendly and good humoured.  I was the only one present, seated by the door, so as he was stepping out to deliver a couple of meals next door he playfully got me to promise I wouldn't leave.  

I eventually walked home, exhausted and underslept.  My sleep always suffers when I travel.  I had some lunch then went down for an hour long nap, then worked on my projects for a while and went out for a shorter neighbourhood walk, where I said hi to or was greeted by a lot of different friendly strangers, including a sweet kitty cat lying on the sidewalk that wanted me to pet him.  On the way up to the apartment in the elevator I had a nice chat with our neighbours across the hall.  Lovely retired couple, Angela and Antonio, and Angela practiced her English with me.  It turns out that she has a sister who lives in Toronto.  I will have to introduce them to my host!


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