Travelling through much of Colombia, one often gets the sense of struggle. This is not a rich country, and income inequality is very high. The government is attempting to tackle this huge problem but the progress is slow and results are mixed, with Medellín having seen a recent rise in poverty. This, I wonder, might have something to do with the sense of unease that I felt while visiting there for three days.
Yesterday we visited a poor area on the mountain slope, that had previously been infested with crime, but there has been a dramatic turnaround. It is called Comuna Trece, or 13, and I imagine there have been some significant investments in the place, encouraging all kinds of vivid and incredible street art and performances. It has become a popular tourist draw, and that was the first time in Colombia, almost, that I saw a lot of visitors from elsewhere, probably mostly from North America and Europe. There are also tonnes of crafts on display. The area is made up of a series of steep stairways, and now there are also a number of escalators, making it a bit easier to climb up the steep hills. Here are some images:
As you can see, there is a lot to see, absorb and digest. The crowds make it a bit difficult as does all the noise, especially from some of the raucous hip hop performances and dance. I also feel a slight unease at the way the locals perform for the well-off tourists. I mean, sure, they are making a living, and it's better than selling drugs, stealing and getting shot, but there is also a certain sense of animals performing in a circus side show, or the grateful natives entertaining visiting royalty. Not a perfect solution, but better than nothing, I suppose. And the art is pretty amazing.
Later, we visited the downtown area, super crowded with people, and vendors and anyone out to try to scrabble for a living. We visited the Botero Square, featuring some of the statues of Colombian artist Fernando Botero, famous for his paintings and sculptures depicting persons of size. Here are some images
Then we found refuge in a church nearby where we sat quietly for around a half hour.
Alonso took me out for dinner for my birthday (I am sixty-four now, February 29, which makes me sixteen years old. Finally!) It was a rather nice upscale vegan restaurant in the nice, upscale neighbourhood of Poblado. The food was delicious, but the portions ridiculously small, as though vegans are expected to look malnourished and skinny. And it was occupied by the same kind of pretentious hipster crowd that one would find in Vancouver. In fact, I felt like I was in Vancouver, except in Spanish. Still, I am not going to look a gift meal in the mouth, and it is totally awesome of Alonso to treat me. As we left the restaurant we were confronted by two poor mothers, each carrying a baby. They were begging. I tried to be generous. This sort of thing I always find heartbreaking, as if things aren't bad enough already in my own sweet little Vancouver. We went to a crepe café for dessert, and the place felt somehow more authentically Colombian, and our server was awesome.
Later, when we returned home, I shared with Alonso how painful it is for me being in Colombia, because the inequality and poverty and suffering is still on a fairly wide scale here, and I only wish there was something I could do besides feel anguish and give a little money out of the very little that I personally have. Perhaps God will open a door in the future where I can be more help. But this also makes me feel like a bit of a hypocrite, as I mentioned earlier, because we already have plenty of problems with homelessness and poverty in Vancouver, and it doesn't seem to be getting any better. And I am counted among the poor, myself, so really, how much can I do, other than make a lot of strategic noise and try to live as a kind person?
Still, I feel an incredible connection with Colombian people, and plan to return next year, and who only knows, Gentle Reader...?
Those are amazing photos, Aaron. I am enjoying your travels.
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